Why I Keep Going Back to San Cristóbal, Mexico

A Slower Corner of Mexico That Always Pulls Me Back

Every time I’m thinking about going back to San Cristóbal, Mexico, I tend to say some version of the same thing:

“I just need a break. I just need to slow down.”

San Cristóbal is that slowdown for me. It’s the place I continually want to go back to because it embodies a lot of what my slothly little slow-travel life needs.

At this point I’ve spent seven or eight months there across separate trips. I almost always stay no less than two months — often closer to three. So this isn’t really a quick “Things to Do in San Cristóbal” article from someone who passed through for a long weekend.

This is more of a love letter about why I keep returning, what my days there actually look like, and why San Cristóbal, Mexico seems to wear so well on me.

Getting to San Cristóbal, Chiapas, Mexico

Travel to San Cristóbal, Mexico takes a little more effort than a lot of other places in Mexico, and honestly, I think that helps. It’s landlocked. There’s no beach. The closest airport to San Cristóbal is Tuxtla Gutiérrez Airport, and from there you still have to travel by road over an hour to San Cris, usually by taxi, shuttle, or bus.

There are less tourists, and it definitely gets busier around holidays, but it usually feels somehow “more like Mexico” than a lot of other places I’ve been.

The lack of waterfront, beaches, resorts, and easy airport access seems to keep it from becoming the obvious choice for a lot of travelers or people on vacation.

A Side Note on Longer Stays in San Cris

If you’re staying longer than the typical vacation in San Cristóbal, and especially if you’re working remotely, I’d seriously consider a coliving space like Co404 San Cristóbal, which is where I’ve always stayed. Having a built-in place to live, work, and meet people can make the whole experience easier, especially if you’re an introvert like me.

And you can use the code “JasonR” (case-sensitive) for 5% off a booking at Co404 San Cristóbal. (More about coliving in Co404 later.)

What Is San Cristóbal Like?

If someone asked me, “What is San Cristóbal like?” I’d probably say it’s slower, cooler, more walkable, and a little more weird/hippie than many other places I’ve visited in Mexico.

It’s not polished, and that’s probably why I like it.

San Cristóbal is completely walkable, and when you don’t want to walk, a short central taxi ride is often around 60–70 pesos, which is only a few U.S. dollars depending on the exchange rate.

Walking the cobblestone streets of San Cristóbal is something I do daily, often multiple times — and often with no destination in mind. I just like to soak it up. To get off my butt and away from the desk. To just be.

Side note…don’t forget to always, always, always consider getting inexpensive travel medical insurance —sometimes as low as $2/day—for your trip, and a separate yearly evacuation insurance policy if you travel internationally often! And check out my list of tips for staying safe while traveling abroad.

There are very few buildings that are taller than two stories. Traffic is usually a non-issue because if there is any, it’s often at a standstill. And if there isn’t, it’s just not really part of your day.

The cobblestone streets are lovely. The sunsets and sunrises are amazing. The pace is slower. The city feels like something you experience on foot, not something you race through.

Coffee Shops, People Watching, and Changing Up My Work Scene

Nearly every day, I go out and work at a coffee shop or two. Partly because I need to work, and partly because I need coffee. But also because people watching and soaking up the energy in San Cris just feels good and calms me.

And grabbing a delicious coffee in Chiapas is usually less than $2–$3 USD, so it’s an easy excuse to change up my work scene, get my caffeine, and feel like I’m participating in local life a little instead of just hiding behind my laptop all day.

That’s one of the things I love most about San Cristóbal. It’s a place where work and daily life can blend in a way that doesn’t feel so heavy.

I can work from Co404 Coliving and then walk to a café. I’ll stop at a market for groceries or flowers on the way home. Later I can go somewhere for dinner, and it’s cheap and delicious. Daily life isn’t complicated, and that’s part of why I love it.

The Markets Are Part of My Ritual

One of the first things I do when I get to San Cristóbal is go to the market and get flowers. I can buy massive bunches of flowers for pennies on the dollar compared to the U.S., so I always decorate my room at the coliving for my entire stay. It’s a small thing, but it immediately makes me feel settled.

I also shop at the markets in San Cristóbal almost daily, since I’m usually passing them anyway. I can grab whatever vegetables or fruits I want, with papayas being one of my favorites when they’re in season.

And there’s almost always some kind of pop-up market happening too — food, crafts, book fairs, sweets, or something else that shows up for a week or a weekend.

The Indigenous Presence Makes It Feel Different

The people in San Cristóbal are kind and gentle, and one of the things that makes the city feel so different from other parts of Mexico I’ve visited is the Indigenous presence.

A lot of Indigenous people come into town to sell their wares at markets and on the streets, and that creates a completely different feeling than most other states or cities I’ve visited in Mexico.

San Cristóbal sits in the Chiapas highlands, an area very connected to Indigenous Maya communities, especially the Tzotzil and Tzeltal people. You see it in the textiles, clothing, markets, and crafts; pretty much everywhere.

I don’t want to pretend I understand all the cultural details of San Cristóbal, because I don’t. I’m definitely just a visitor trying to be respectful and understand more with each visit. But I do think that Indigenous element is one of the reasons the city feels so unique to me.

Why I Always Stay at Co404 San Cristóbal

Staying at Co404 San Cristóbal Coliving is definitely a big part of why I keep going back. It’s a great community experience, especially for someone introverted like me, even though there is a premium cost associated with it compared to other long-term options in San Cris.

For me, the value of being in a place where I can live, work, and be plugged into meeting new people who travel and work the way I do is more than worth the investment. I like to refer to it as the complicated intersection of cost and value.

Sometimes things that cost a little more bring exponentially more value, and that’s how I feel about Co404.

I’ve had so many relationships start and grow because of staying at Co404 — whether in Oaxaca, San Cristóbal, or Medellín, Colombia. From friendships to travel companions, and even years-long romantic/life relationships.

Of course I could probably stay somewhere less expensive, but Co404 gives me community, 24/7 workspace, and a beautiful garden/yard with a fire pit for chilly evenings. And yes, as of this writing, I’m already booked for a couple more months later this year.

Use the code “JasonR” (case-sensitive) for 5% off a booking at Co404 San Cristóbal.

The Food in San Cristóbal Is Amazing and Still Affordable

The food in San Cristóbal is amazing, and there’s always something new. That’s both good and bad, since that often means a small restaurant I loved last time might have closed, with another taking its place by the next time I visit.

The price points go from filling your tum-tum for $2–$3 USD all the way up to “the sky is the limit,” but typically, going out for what I consider an amazing meal is still less than $7–$10 USD.

The key is realizing that some places still cater to tourists, with higher costs, but so many more are on the local side. The food is still delicious if not better, but the energy is different and it’s easier on the budget.

That’s one of the reasons San Cristóbal works so well for longer stays. You can eat simply and inexpensively, but you can also treat yourself without needing to financially recover. 

Yoga, Dance, and the Earthy San Cris Vibe

San Cristóbal is definitely known for having a little bit more of an earthy, hippie vibe.

I go to one of the local yoga studios almost daily when I’m there. I’ve also taken many dance lessons in San Cristóbal for both salsa and bachata. There are plenty of opportunities to take dance lessons or just go social dancing at a couple of the clubs almost any day of the week.

There are always music festivals in nearby parks, small events, pop-up markets, organic markets, spiritual classes, and people doing some version of “I came here to find myself and accidentally stayed three years.”

People joke that San Cris is a spiritual vortex because the people who go there to find themselves never seem to leave. I definitely get why.

The Fireworks, Roosters, Dogs, and Other San Cris “Noise”

One of the charming things I actually love about San Cristóbal is the fireworks. Daily and sometimes hourly, and definitely ramping up around whatever holiday is approaching or happening that day, there are almost nonstop booms.

Some people really don’t like this. And I get it. It’s not exactly peaceful in the traditional sense. But honestly, I think it’s part of the charm, along with the roosters and the dogs you can hear almost nonstop.

It’s not white noise, exactly. It’s more like the soundtrack. But after a week or two, it usually almost fades into the background for me. Still very much there when I want to hear it, but no longer as jarring as when I land.

One of my absolute favorite memories in San Cristóbal was getting up on the terrace at Co404 and watching a 360-degree view of fireworks on Christmas and New Year’s Eve.

You just can’t see that in the States in the same way because fireworks are so regulated. In San Cristóbal, you can buy fireworks anytime, but when the big holidays come, there are massive markets, and it seems like every family buys their stash.

It felt like every other rooftop had the whole family on it, every barrio had a massive firework show, and all of it went off at once at midnight for easily 20 minutes. An epic memory I’ll honestly never forget.

Is San Cristóbal Safe? The Rough Edges Are Part of the Charm

Some people say San Cristóbal is rough around the edges, but I really think that’s part of the charm.

There are street dogs. The sidewalks and cobblestones are not exactly forgiving. (Always get travel medical insurance! Turned ankles happen!) And walking the quiet streets after dark can go from tranquil to almost eerily quiet in an instant. But on very few occasions, over the different months I’ve stayed there, have I ever felt unsafe in San Cristóbal.

Of course, I use common sense. I don’t walk alone late at night, and I mostly stay in the touristed area or close outskirts. But overall, San Cristóbal has always felt much more safe than anything else to me.

Things to Do in San Cristóbal

If you’re looking for Things to Do in San Cristóbal, there are plenty. You can visit nearby towns, take day trips, go to markets, find yoga classes, take salsa or bachata lessons, work from cafés, eat your way around town, or just walk for hours.

I’ve done dozens of day trips from San Cris, including Chamula multiple times, Zinacantán, and other trips around Chiapas.

I’ve even had a beer in Guatemala while on a trip visiting ruins you could only get to by boat. Again, pretty freaking epic.

Día de los Muertos in San Cristóbal de Las Casas

As I write this, I’m planning my next trip back for the fall, likely for Día de los Muertos, or what you might know as Day of the Dead.

Día de los Muertos is celebrated around the end of October through November 2. It’s when families honor loved ones who have died, often with cemetery visits, flowers, candles, food, photos, and offerings. And no, it’s not simply “Mexican Halloween,” even though the timing overlaps.

I’ve taken two small, respectful cultural/historic tours of the cemeteries and celebrations in two different years. The mood can be colorful, emotional, joyful, reflective, and deeply family-centered all at once or from moment to moment.

It really shows the way Mexican people care for their family in both the present and the past. It feels very different from the way family, death, and grief are often handled in the States.

Why I’m Usually Ready to Leave — and Why I Come Back

I almost always stay no less than two months, and sometimes closer to three. And the only reason I’m usually ready to leave is because I’ve gotten my energy back by resting in San Cristóbal.

That’s probably the best way I can explain why San Cris is so therapeutic for me. It’s where I go when I need to slow down. Where I remember that I don’t always need to be moving so fast.

It’s not perfect. And months-long stays in a place as quaint as San Cristóbal de las Casas are definitely not for everyone.

But I guess that’s why it’s a perfect place for me. Possible homebase in the future? I’ll go with “probably.”

Cheers!

— Jason

Oh, and don’t forget  you can use the code “JasonR” (case-sensitive) for another 5% off a booking at Co404 San Cristóbal. Maybe I’ll see you there!